Michael Edwards: Evolving, elegant lemon gold. On the previous quite numerous occasions I have tasted this wine, the taut austere ’98 Clos showed the imperious minerality one would have expected. But at a WFW tasting in September 2010 and now at this one, the aromas of the wine seem to be changing, showing signs of advancing oxidation. The palate still shows a honeyed, rounded generosity. But on this showing, the ’98 CDM should be drunk fairly quickly. A minority view, maybe. Needs watching. 14