Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Smoky bacon aromas can’t conceal the baked character of the fruit—but there’s an appealing, forthright, oaky quality to the nose. Medium-bodied, rather slack, a jab of heat from alcohol as it’s too hollow for the fruit to sustain it. Firm tannins but not too rugged. Drink soon for its fairly simple fruit and fleshiness. Medium length. 14.5

Stephen Browett: Deepish color. A solid nose. Strong black fruit on the palate, quite classic in its structure and serious for 2003. Impressive density. 15

Michael Schuster: Very dark red; lightly minerally, faintly stewed nose; tannic medium weight, with a lively Cabernet Sauvignon flavor, but any Margaux delicacy swamped by the dry tannin texture. Moderate complexity, medium length. Just not very attractive claret. Even with time. From 2012. 13.5?