Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Exquisitely fruited, with generosity of structure, excellent freshness, arresting complexity, and a greater future ahead of it than Carbonnieux, but less immediate purity in that the wood is still quite apparent. 18.5

Michael Schuster: Restrained, subtle, cedary, and relatively closed nose; almost velvety rich in texture, and yet so well defined by its acidity; long, graceful, and caressing; not strong, but with a ripe, refined, classy, grapefruit-scented, pebble-backed flavor; great aromatic presence and complexity on the palate, great finesse of style, and with lovely gentle fruit and mineral persistence. Less obvious richness and vigor than Laville, but a very fine Haut-Brion Blanc. Accessible relatively early, but all the more subtle for keeping. 2015–30+. 18.5/19