Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Once again this year, local weather conditions (a particularly nasty hailstorm) have led to a high Merlot component in the grand vin—hence its exceptional fleshiness, but also slight lack of finesse compared with those fabulous vintages of previous years. Much the same may be said of the impeccably polished Alter Ego, which also displays less flesh than expected. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Ripe blackberry/blueberry nose; full, fleshy, very finely tannic wine with a lively defining acidity; long, sweet, close grained, complex palate, dense yet elegant, with a notable spicy element and with the year’s typically long, aromatic finish. Long, linear and very good, with that touch of ’08 long-term austerity. Needs time. 2020–35+. 17/17.5