Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Already real signs of that unique Poujeaux character: perfectly complementary Médoc grapes and a velvety texture typical of this area’s deep gravel beds. A complex wine, structured for aging, that will reward careful cellaring. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, minerally, red-fruit nose; firm, fleshy middleweight with a fresh acidity and firm tannin round gently gravelly fruit of modest complexity and good, light, scented length. Currently a little wood dry. Sound, rather than special. 2013–25+. 15/15.5