Michael Schuster: Closed, but delicately fine and scented nose, a combination of ripe red fruit and minerals; supple, graceful, elegantly concentrated wine, notably fine-textured in tannin, still youthful; restrained richness of flavor, sweetly ripe without any mawkishness, subtle oak and mineral, a mouth-searching quality and great sweet-fruited, minerally length. Just a touch of warmth, but wearing its 14.5% indicated alcohol effortlessly. Classic, understated Haut Brion, all delicacy and refinement, but with nothing lacking. 2016–35. 18+