Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Strong aromas of leather, café au lait, and amarena cherry. Strong attack, spreading out, great acid/fruit balance, firm but ripe tannins, very good length. From 2018. 18

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet core to orange, pink rim. Broad, mature, black-fruit nose, with blackberries, prunes, spices, and minerals. Full body with decadent black fruit. Long and firm finish. Not my style, but definitely generous and complex. 17

Andrew Jefford: Saturated dense black-red. Aromatically a rather confused wine: some attractive woodland fruit, but also a silage-like sweetness that appeals less. Stewy, dense, and rich on the palate: a huge amount of bang for your buck, with massive thumping tannins, huge depth, and some sweet oak. Somebody has tried very hard with this. Stylistically it is not exactly to my taste: The sweetness is too dominant and too simple in style, but I applaud the provocative depth and extracts. I feel there must be very good raw materials here, which subtler handling would bring out. 14.5