Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: a complete wine for the vintage, distinguished and complex, with, even at this stage, a surprising texture. with the recent purchase of superbly located vineyards, the wine has gained in style and power. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Quite dense, mineral, and freshly ripe-fruit nose; moderately concentrated, moderate in fine tannin, a lively middleweight impression; nothing grand here, but a pleasing, flowing, easy, ripe-fruited and gently mineral wine, with a good, medium- length finish. this will be an attractive bottle, accessible early. 2018–28. 16