Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: The texture is quite complete and well delineated for the vintage; perfectly defined tannins, wonderful length on the palate, an elegantly classic wine. (Chapelle, the second wine, is soft and charming, but it’s likely to be on the expensive side. The white clarte is a much more interesting wine.) 19

Michael Schuster: dense, mineral, ripe-fruited nose; refined, concentrated, with a fine, firmly dry tannin and marked acidity; fairly austere to taste because of the combination of acidity and tannin; but plenty of matter and minerality there; long and elegant across the palate, but always with a firm bearing to the close-knit, crisply ripe fruit; excellent aromatic length. Very long term. 2024–40+. 17.5