Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold. A complex, dense mesh of scents: grasses, citrus zests, vanilla, orchard fruits, the hint of spices but no more. On the palate, this is very bright and intense, almost explosive: a geyser of fresh apple and grape, grapefruit, and green plum. There is some minerality and extractive richness to back this (though it is certainly not the most mineral wine on the table). But it is really the wine’s remarkable intensity above all that insists that you keep returning and re-returning to it. The character of that intensity, though, is lighter than many of its peers; it doesn’t have the clinging, almost earthy intensity that they have. Drivingly long, almost insolently long, but soprano: a great site, and mastered yields. 16.5

Andreas Larsson: Nice and intense aromas of yellow plum, apricot, and honey; rich and concentrated palate, with fine, persistent flavors, elegant fruit, and a well-needed freshness; a long crisp aftertaste with some salty mineral notes. 17

Stephan Reinhardt: If you had grown up in a small town that was brewing beer you would know the nose: a wine nose dressed as beer. But I cannot remember having sniffed a more elegant and refined beer. Give it just a minute or two to discover the purity and finesse of this wine. On the palate, it is so pure and uncompromisingly terroir-driven that it is difficult to score it. I find this a really great wine, powerful and intense, though refined, pure, transparent, vital, very salty, and lingering. Dry Riesling at its best. But please do not drink it before 2020—it would be a waste of talent. 18.5