Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Quite as stylish as the Haut-Brion (no surprises there); ultra-classic overall, if a touch more mellow and sensual on the palate, and a touch less strict on the finish. Lovers of Pessac-Léognan will kill for this. 18

Michael Schuster: Dense, minerally nose with a black-fruit ripeness; elegantly concentrated, vivid wine with a very fine-textured tannin and superb balance; long, dense, freshly ripe, mineral-backed flavor with a lovely persistence in the mouth and great fruit and mineral resonance on the finish. Compact, complete, aromatic, and linear; splendid, aristocratic La Mission. 2020–40+. 18/18.5