Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Rather less impressive at this stage than the 2007, especially in terms of aromas, but rich and distinctive, with inimitable oak integration and persistence. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Pale greeny gold; a complex, subtle nose, with vivid Sauvignon Blanc fruit aromas to the fore at the moment, and a subtle oak cedar; rich, ripe, generous, surprisingly rich and fleshy wine, given the level of acidity and proportion of Sauvignon Blanc; a delicately sweet and sappy core, all the while vivid and racy on the palate; wonderfully contained, with great clarity of flavor to the clear ripeness of fruit, and with effortless, minerally aromatic length. Will make a great, graceful, beautifully defined mature Haut-Brion Blanc—every inch the quality of a fine Montrachet. 2018–30+. 18.5/19+