Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: True to form, with youthful notes that come close to reduction but evolve with air towards verbena. Ultra-brisk and honest, with that taut, crystalline finish typical of Sauvignon fruit picked as it ripens. A backbone of tangy acid makes this wine an ideal apéritif. 16

Michael Schuster: A vivid lemon and guava nose; a good balance of concentrated, ripe fruit to lively acidity; dry yet very fruity flavor, a fine combination of juicy ripeness, aromatic volume, mouth-watering freshness, and excellent length. First-rate La Louvière. 2011–18. 16/16.5