Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A juicy and dense wine, made almost massive by its fat, spicy tannins. Vinous but not very nuanced at this stage—élevage should put that right. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Black-red; a nose abundant in both fruit and minerality; impressively rich, concentrated wine with vivid acidity and abundant fruit and oak tannin; full of fine, vigorous, sappy, ripe fruit and with excellent length; surprisingly graceful and elegant despite its mass and muscle. You really taste the 27hl/ha yield here (the norm is 40), and I imagine it will require plenty of bottle age. 2018–30+. 16.5/17