Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Another wine that will go the distance: typical Cabernet expression (20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon), serious structure, and all the hallmarks of one of this year’s vins de garde. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Light, fragrant, floral nose, soft, black-cherry fruit, new wood-tinged; nicely balanced, fresh, fleshy, fullish wine with a very gentle tannin; sweetly fruity and deliciously vital, a clear-cut, gently racy wine, with lovely length across the palate, warm, round, refined, subtly minerally, and with fine, spicy length. An unusual combination of sweet fruit and acidity gives this wine a most attractive mouth-watering quality. English doesn’t really have quite the word for it; the French acidulé expresses it well. 2015–25. 16.5/17.5