Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Much more vinosity and sparkle than Carruades, a bit less pure finesse—but we prefer the balance here, which expresses with force and personality their superb terroir in this great vintage. 18

Michael Schuster: Gravel and minerals on the nose, but ripe, discreet blackcurrant, too; softly rich, supple middleweight, with a fresh acidity and finely dry tannin; ripe and fleshy, a slightly “fluid” character by comparison with the best 2009s, an easygoing, flowing, sunny personality, but also with a fine, discreet pebbly aromatic character, too; gently complex, nice aromatic length, and excellent fruit persistence. Given its recent form, I had expected a bit more depth; nonetheless, a very good, if not stunning, Duhart. 2017–30. 16/16.5