Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: An excellent Pauillac, elegant and sober, with a clearly defined texture and firm but not overpowering tannins; a classic that never goes out of style. But does it have all the grandeur of the vintage? We asked ourselves the question but didn’t find the answer. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Nothing showy on the nose, but a ripe, restrained, finely gravelly fruit; wonderfully balanced, nicely concentrated, rich middleweight, very refinedly tannic, fleshy and supple, yet fresh and precise, too; long, easy, fully ripe Cabernet richness to taste; subtle and complex, generous in juicy ripe fruit and aroma, racy, refreshing, and Médoc minerally behind the delicious juiciness. Ease, harmony, and great length of gentle Cabernet fruit and gravel aromas. Superb, fully ripe, and joyously fresh GPL, probably the best since 1961. Should be accessible early and age beautifully, gracefully. Not big, but a perfect, effortless expression of claret, and of Pauillac. 2017–35+. 17/17.5+