Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Definitely the most complete Mouton since 1949, with all the refinement of modern vinification. Commendable from beginning to end, despite the massive tannins. What a joy to experience all of these first growths at the top of their game—though it is frustrating that the prices they will fetch put them out of reach for most European wine lovers. 19.5

Michael Schuster: Seductive, blackcurrant Cabernet on the nose; beautifully balanced, richly supple wine, with a fresh acidity and an especially fine tannin; ripe, savory blackcurrant Cabernet flavor, long and subtle across the palate, discreet, elegant, polished, understated; long and graceful, gently spicy and scented, with no overextraction, a particularly juicy complexity, and lovely, fragrant, fruit length. A very beautiful rather than a powerful expression of Mouton (its more feminine side?), without quite the density I might have expected in this particular year. Succulently lovely, though. 2020–40+. 18.5/19?