Michael Schuster: Closed but very ripe to smell; elegantly balanced in Gonzague Lurton’s very slightly austere style: crisp, finely tannic, close-grained, complex, and linear; clear Margaux proportions—not “big,” that is, but fine, long in the mouth, very minerally behind the delicate, transparent fruit; very ripe but not sweet or thick; subtle, long, fine-textured without being silky or unctuous, and very aromatic to finish. Harmonious, even, complete Durfort—a combination of gentle power and restraint. The best wine since Gonzague took over nearly 20 years ago. 2017–30. 16/16.5+

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: The best wine made here in the past 30 years, and finally a wine worthy of a second growth. Aristocratic notes of flowers and spice on the nose; fresh but ripe. A dense structure; tight, spicy tannins; complex, with lots of Cabernet Sauvignon character and great personality. 18