Michael Schuster: Dense, mineral, and freshly ripe blackcurrant nose; what a balance: rich, pulpily, gently fleshy wine, with a wonderfully flattering, silky, Merlot texture, superbly elegant concentration, imperceptibly fresh definition, and super-fine tannins; rich yet restrained; deep, sweet, long, pure, beautifully fruit-cored, thoroughbred feel; so easy yet so complete; a complex chord, with a wonderful range of harmonics; the perfect image of Palmer; effortless, gentle density, real Cab presence on the finish, freshly ripe blackcurrant, gently spicy, with a superb fruit and gentle aromatic-spice persistence. Difficult to think of a finer Palmer since the ’61. An outstanding performance, and an undoubted star of the vintage. Hope they don’t use too much oak on that fabulous texture. 2018–40. 19/19.5

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: After a few vintages that showed a pronounced Cabernet personality, this winery has reintegrated the legendary qualities of its Merlot. We admire the incredibly silky texture and harmony of the wine, despite its monumental character. But the sublime purity of Château Margaux seems out of reach. This is certainly the best wine made here since 1961—and the birth of a mythic wine, with a little something more than the almost-perfect 2005. 19