Stephen Brook: Opaque red. Lush, sumptuous, black-fruit nose, quite chocolaty. Plump, rounded, plums, and chocolate; hefty tannins, but the fruit fights through them, and there is some acidic lift on the finish. Far from subtle, but a rich mouthful of fruit and an underlying softness that suggests a fairly rapid evolution. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep red-black, still opaque. Generous, curranty fruit, but slightly simple and pastille-like in style. Attractive and enticing, nonetheless. Well crafted here. 2004 is not often foursquare, since it just doesn’t have the substance for that, but this is dense and solidly hewn, with deep blackcurrant fruit lent shape and definition by well-judged oak. Workmanlike in the best sense. 14.5