Stephen Brook: Opaque red. Muted nose, crushed blackberries. This seems to have closed up since I last encountered the wine, but there is some succulence and spice—even a touch of fruitcake. Rich and supple, juicy, concentrated, but not excessively so, with no lack of grip and tannin. Forthright and assertive, with lively acidity. Delivers a punch, but in terms of flavor and tenacity rather than weight or alcohol. It’s quite muscular and would benefit from a good four years more in bottle. Good length. 17

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark red-black. Warm, full, open, with some evident oak, but lots of dark-fruit purity, too. Exuberant, forceful, with squeaky tannic edges and a big splash of just-ripe fruit in the foreground. Energetic though unrefined, and without the diagnostic Merlot sweetness of the good or great vintage. Licorice finish. Lots to enjoy, nonetheless, especially soon. 15