Alison Buchanan: Rich gold in color, this has an appetizing nose, controlled and poised with light spice and white flowers vying with honeyed fruit. The palate mirrors the complexity of the nose—all controlled and with no imbalance. There is a refreshing lift that complements and offsets the toasted character. Well handled and long. 15

Stephen Brook: Rich, broad, buttery nose, ripe apricots. Rich, opulent, but not too heavy—there’s a vein of acidity streaking through the wine, giving a bright and even fresh aftertaste. This has good length and even some minerality. Stylish, not overblown, and well balanced, if no great depth of flavor. 16.5

Oz Clarke: Quite bright gold. Pleasant style. Restrained but tasty. A little spice, some nutty lees contact, and a spine of minerality that stays right through, even when the flavor fattens out to peach and a hint of quince at the end. 16.5