Alison Buchanan: Lustrous yellow-gold with green lights, this is rather dull on the nose, revealing little, and a trifle dilute. The palate, similarly, fails to excite, though some gentle floral aromatics appear mid-palate and remain throughout a sustained honeyed finish. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Sweet, oaky nose, quite toasty. Fresh attack, evidently ripe, apricot and peach, with some oaky bite on the mid-palate. Well balanced, though little depth here. Straightforward but satisfying, with only moderate length. 14.5

Oz Clarke: Quite attractive pale straw. Spicy, slightly gingery nose. Pretty good. A little fat and a touch of phenolics, but it manages to get away with it. The cream and spice are evident enough to cope with the slightly extracted oak, and it finishes mellow, if a little-old fashioned. 14.5