Alison Buchanan: Not immediately attractive on the nose, which is rather subdued. The palate is fulsome and ripe, sweet and honeyed, but it rather lacks focus. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Powerful nose with a lot of oak, very toasty, almost charred. Rich, full-bodied; juicy, bruised apple; some spice. This has weight of fruit but lacks a little acidity to balance it. Still, there’s admirable presence and personality, with ample oaky bite on the finish. Has swagger rather than finesse. Moderate length. 17

Oz Clarke: Quite full, bright green-gold. Quite rich fruit. Definite rocks in here. Acid plus rocks, and good sturdy fruit. This is interesting, not mainstream—a suggestion of moss and nuts, and sweet, green sap. It’s full and deep and proud, with a rocky, turbulent quality that makes it a challenging drink. Later, there’s more wood, more brooding fruit, and more rough-hewn pleasure. 17