Alison Buchanan: Lovely yellow-gold in color, this is immediately appealing. The nose presents stone fruits, honey, and white flowers, with a warm biscuit, vanilla richness—rather classical, really. Richly textured and creamy, with a buttered backdrop, this has style and balance, poise and elegance, despite its obvious opulence. 16.5

Stephen Brook: A no-holds-barred nose with plenty of oak and tropical fruit. Big, lush, creamy, full-bodied, and concentrated, with a Californian radiance in place of European finesse. A crowd-pleaser with masses of up-front fruit and modest acidity—a good example of this style. Lacks length, and not for long aging. 15.5

Oz Clarke: Quite full green-gold. Fairly wild yeast/nut nose. Fairly acid and yet rather sauvage. This funky style really needs slightly ripe fruit. It finishes nutty and fresh, but the whole package doesn’t quite work. The funk seems to dominate the fruit. 14