Alison Buchanan: Back to French pastry shops for this one: rich and buttery with vanilla in the air. The texture on the palate is opulent and seductive, complex and ripe, with orchard fruit layered with citrus freshness and vanilla cream. Although oak is not my thing, this is well balanced and shows skilled winemaking (how patronizing!). 16.5

Stephen Brook: Hefty, tropical-fruit nose—overblown. Big, swaggering, opulent, with a distinct overripeness as well as searing added acidity. Don’t see this coming easily into balance. Essentially clumsy, going for exoticism at the expense of elegance. Despite the acidity, the finish is fairly short. 13

Oz Clarke: Rather full Lactobacillus nose. Full, rather rich, and fat. Flabby cream just beginning to sour and a slack-jawed texture. This may have been an ambitious attempt, but it wasn’t well done. 10.5