Alison Buchanan: Rich gold in color, clinging to the glass, this is relatively restrained on the nose, just hinting at apple skins and mineral notes. The palate is ripe and full, richly textured and attractively balanced—rather classical in style—trim, poised, and elegant. 15

Stephen Brook: Delicate nose of apricot and pears. Medium-bodied, reasonably fresh, straightforward, supple. Pleasant but lacks some vigor and personality. Strolling along, singing a song—but without much purpose or interest. Modest length. 13

Oz Clarke: Quite full green-gold. Nose good, fresh, attractive. Palate good, fresh, full—a welcome streak of mineral and quite direct lemon acid and apple flesh. But pretty nice lightly toasted hazelnut, too, and a touch of cedar. This is good, easy to enjoy, but not really special. 16