Alison Buchanan: Yellow-gold in color, this is rather subdued on the nose, with understated, somewhat green fruit, herbaceous, with a citrus vitality. The palate reflects the nose, with attractive richness allied to pretty freshness. 15

Stephen Brook: Delicate bruised-apple nose. Soft attack, lacks concentration and bite, easy-going and bland. Soon fades. Modest fruit, modest winemaking. Not bad—just dull and short. 12

Oz Clarke: Slightly old-style cream and nuts, and phenolic weight. There’s also just a little volatile lift and a streak of metal (okay). It’s a slightly baked style, some rice pudding and overprocessed peach nuts, so you have a couple of mouthfuls and then move on. 14.5