Tom Stevenson: 40% Pinot Noir, 60% Chardonnay; disgorged 2007; dosage <5g. In 1980, when most of the 1973s were released, this was considered to be only a good-tomiddling vintage and, as the Champagne aged further in the cellars, it became clear that premature oxidation of Chardonnay was going to be a problem. With such a high proportion of Chardonnay in the 1973 blend, it would be an achievement in itself simply for Dom Pérignon to retain freshness after 40 years, but this Champagne has improved beyond all expectations, particularly over the past 15 years or so. It has such great finesse and such a gorgeous, creamy-silky mousse, that it is now comparable to many of the best Dom Pérignon vintages.Magnum