Michael Edwards: Quite a lot of tension and acquired freshness. A “made” wine, but successfully so 15

Simon Field: Gentle of color for a 2003, with a fine bead and attractive brioche/yellow-fruit aroma. The palate is rather languorous and aggressive at the back, just at the point where Champagne should, at the very least, flatter to deceive 15

Tom Stevenson: This speaks to me of its vintage; rather full, heavy, and lacking acids, but totally honest—and with the right food it will be transformed. Inspired 18.5