Alex Hunt: Despite a rich gold (rather than amber) color, this has some distinctively oxidative tones—but they are lively ones, perhaps closest to the candied peel of good Marsala. This is a relatively dry style of 6 puttonyos (as the higher alcohol might suggest), and with the dominant character being bittersavory rather than sweet-fruity is perhaps better suited to cheese than dessert. Within the context of this stylistic choice, it’s a balanced, nuanced success - 17
Andrew Jefford: Deep, full burnished gold. Aromatic and allusive, very harmonious now, with a sense of soil and stone here, as well as the gathered autumn apples and the falling leaves. A twist of orange peel, too. Impressively concentrated and long, with very dramatic, thrusting Furmint acidity. Lots of fallen orchard fruits and a tangy, autumnal finish. Faintly brutal: There’s no chiffon or charm to this; instead, it’s upright and military. Just a little bit bitter at the end, too. But impressive, all the same, and palate-rousing - 15
Mark Savage: Paler color than other wines in the flight and an element of damp straw in the fruit that I have not seen hitherto. The overall effect is relatively dry and quite strong (and it shows: 12% ABV rather than the more typical 9 and 10% of its neighbors), and there is also some influence from the cask, I think. Relatively austere. Interesting to see how it develops - 14
Details
Wine expert | Andrew Jefford Alex Hunt Mark Savage |
Tastings year | 2013 |
Region | Tokaj |