Essi Avellan: Pale lemon. Reductive gunpowdery nose, reserved with clean, fresh fruitiness. Some vegetal fruit tones, lime and hay. Tight palate, linear and lightweight, with lovely smooth, creamy mousse. Very correct and polished, and it comes with elegant fruitiness. Long, mellow finish. 93

Alex Hunt: Quite pale and very fresh, fruit-driven (white peach, citrus), even herbal. In fact, it smells rather Riesling-esque for a Champagne. The palate is similarly dynamic, though it does also have a certain bitterness that robs it of some finesse, and the finish is loose, like 2006 white Burgundy can be. One of the few wines here that doesn’t seem ready, but the drinking window might be on the short side, given that finish. 89

Tom Stevenson: Lovely youthful, pale straw color. Hugely reductive nose, but in a good way, and an absolute relief after so many oxidized s. Some underripe fruit giving this wine its zip and zing, but the acidity is, if anything, a tad on the soft side, indicating a judicious use of underripe grapes. 88