Tim Atkin: Big, rich, profound color. Oak-dominated nose but still attractive oak, with some savory red-fruit nose beneath. Palate a little on the alcoholic side, but this is made to last. Lovely core of fruit sweetness, fresh acidity, and quite a bit of oak at the moment, but this should integrate in bottle. Very smooth. 17

Jesús Barquín: Very deep cherry. A wine with beauty and a seriousness of structure where oak makes itself a little too noticeable still. The best is reserved for the palate. Firm but polished tannins, fruit freshness and length. Here is some wine. 17.5

Alex Hunt: Open, engaging, savory nose. It is led by oak, but the oak is well judged so that it shades seamlessly into the fruit, rather like a Médoc classed growth. The structure is similar on the palate, too: copious but very refined tannin, no excess fat or fruit, but still pleasantly mouth-filling. Good balance all around. This is a class act. 16.5