Michael Schuster: Fine black-fruit concentration to smell; rich, concentrated wine, with a lively acidity and fine firm tannin; long, sweet, pure core of fruit, vital in the blackcurrant-and-lemon style; warm, moderately complex, and with very nice length. A gentle glow on the aftertaste, so not exactly refreshing, but good balance in this year’s atypical style. 2016–26. 15/16