John Gilman: The 2010 Fugue de Nénin weighs in at 13.9% ABV. The wine has turned out quite well (though nowhere near as seductive as the really delicious 2008), offering up a very ripe (but not overripe) nose of black cherries, plums, chocolate, cigar smoke, soil, and spicy new oak. On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied, and well balanced, with its substantial tannins buried in fruit and very good length and grip on the chewy finish. This will need at least seven or eight years to soften, but it is a nicely balanced and successful example of the vintage. 2018–35. 16