Jesús Barquín: Deeper color and slightly younger looking. Very elegant nose, intensely spiced but rounded and harmonious. The palate is more restrained but still exhibiting outstanding body and fleshiness, with fine tannins well wrapped by intense flavors of good definition that recall the nose: truffles, underbrush, meat. Long and clean. 18.5

Simon Field: Garnet tawny color, confident and pure. Nose of strawberry and compote, hints of vanillin, the youth of Dorian Gray. Palate is complete with balancing acidity, strawberry, and forest floor. Amazingly pure at this age, with gamey personality and fine, focused finish. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Dark crimson still. Great compact fruit intensity. Hint of tobacco leaf with enough fresh acidity. Dense and savory. A little bit of animal. Drying out just a little but a laudable style. Serious stuff. Drink 1988–2012. 17.5