Jesús Barquín: Deeper color, toasty notes, smoky meat, modern air with aniseed and creamy aromas. The palate shows evident tannin, birdseed in the finish, youthfulness, a note of modern Rioja. 17.5

Simon Field: Firm color, nose of graphite, cloves, and dark fruit, with hints of minerals. Palate is lifted and creamy; young beyond its years, impressive and rounded. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Much bluer and darker than most. Smells like a very good mature red wine. Balsamic notes. Olives. Lovely stuff! So complete. The first wines made by the family. Such integrity and liveliness. Fresh yet with lots of interesting fruit, too. Very appetizing. One must assume this is a terroir note, since it is clearly related to how these wines taste now! Drink 1990–2020. 18.5