Jesús Barquín: Smoky, toasty, even ashy notes. The palate is light but well structured, long, with a hint of dill and orange peel. A fine wine. 16.5

Simon Field: Tawny with hints of amber; nose is generous, venerable, and rich; the textural complexity of a fine Velázquez. Subtle, fine, and with quite assertive acidity to see it through. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Healthy ruby. Lots of really quite luscious fruit here. Very sweet and rosy fruit. Lovely sweetness, and I feel this could only be (traditional) Rioja. Lots of vibrancy and layers. Very long. Bravo. Long. Lots of fruit but great delicacy, too. Drink 1985–2015. 18.5