Jesús Barquín: Slightly more oxidative in style; a note of crème brûlée, expressive and long. I’d place it under the 1970 because the latter’s edges make it more complex if less perfectly assembled. 18

Simon Field: Gold of hue, with an attractive nose of Demerara sugar and molasses; palate is disarmingly dry yet with plenty of extract and personality, vegetal hints, but then more interesting notes of bay, smoke, and a flinty backdrop. 16

Jancis Robinson: Deep gold. Also quite vegetal. Smoky with some real fruit richness and interest. Chewy end. Drink 1990–2015. 17