Jesús Barquín: Serious, textbook old Rioja, almost on par with the very best, and in great shape: kirsch, spice, underbrush, fleshy. Refined and elegant. Creamy notes emerge with more air. Youthful. 17.5

Simon Field: Tawny rim, confident core. Nose of beef stock, soot, and raspberry essence; palate flirts with delicacy, thinks better of it, and finishes strongly, with a velvety tannic grip, applauding. 17

Jancis Robinson: Mid-crimson. Sweet, tobacco nose. But then there is lots of acidity and rather a shortage of lusciousness on the palate. Tart. Then rather sickly on the end. Drink 1980–2000. 16