Jesús Barquín: Prunes, youthful nose confirmed by the palate with a modern feel to it: slightly unresolved tannin, perhaps from the oak. In any case, a wine of unquestionable quality, regardless of how well it carries its 50 years of age. 17

Simon Field: Firm color, quite uniform at rim; nose has a hint of distant bonfires, school libraries, and too much homework. Palate quite firm, with the fruit mature and pleasingly evolved; tannins and acidity a little out of kilter. Hard to dislike, however. 15

Jancis Robinson: Mid-ruby. Smells very developed and toasty. Light and a little febrile and tart. Not graceful. A bit rustic and smudgy. Lots of acidity. Drink 1980–2000. 16