Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep, some perfume on nose. Rich, creamy palate that somehow doesn’t seem to come together, though very professionally made. Couldn’t drink too much, but check again in 2015. 15

Stephen Brook: Discreet smoky, leathery nose, yet there’s plenty of fresh fruit, too. Sleek attack, stylish and lifted, with an appealing raciness and drive. At present, there’s more intensity than depth of flavor, but it’s subtle and nuanced. It’s the elegance and texture that really appeal and make one ignore any absence of power. Well balanced and will surely develop more complexity and volume with time. Very good length. 18

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark, glowing black-red. This wine has lots of class and refinement to its aromatic profile: subtly cedary notes and hints of incense-burnish, plush, warm, beautifully ripened red-black fruits. Concentrated, warm, expressive, and authoritative, this is built on a strong core of beautifully ripened, low-yielding (or old-vine) fruit given shape and density by skillfully judged extracts and palpable though open-contoured tannins. Those incense notes creep back to infuse the fruits at the palate end. Innately dramatic, ripe, expressive, and sensually enticing, yet with real extractive grandeur. This wine is one of the stars of the tasting. There’s 15 years of steady evolution ahead. 16.5