Tim Atkin: Reductive, faintly animal nose, with a hint of Brett. Palate rather overoaked and dry. High acid, and the fruit is subdued by the oak. Slightly feral finish again. Potentially a good wine, but tannins mismanaged. Dry finish. 13

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep cherry. A reductive note typical of the region marks the nose; fine leather hints develop with air and provide complexity. Underneath, there are tight fruit notes. The palate shows firm but not aggressive tannins. Well structured, with potential for further bottle aging. 15.5

Alex Hunt: Rich and powerful on the nose; a certain meaty, Bovril-like density but, for once, not indicative of oxidation. Becomes more refined and mineral with air. Very savory on the palate, with bright acidity but a slight lack of stuffing. Not a fruit-forward style but needs a little more flavor intensity to make up for it. 14.5