Tim Atkin: Dense color, still youthful. Nice despite a touch of VA? A little dry. Tannic, ripe, lots of flavor, fresh acidity. All a little foursquare, but there’s enough acidity here for balance. Savory, fresh, nice length. Drying finish. 15

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry. Very ripe and dominated by spicy vanilla notes, with an abbocato feeling that detracts character. Heavy-ish, extracted, not among the most harmonious within the modern style. 13

Alex Hunt: Too much volatile acidity on the nose here for me. The blackberry fruit is attractive, still fresh, but I could do without the balsamic vinegar sprinkled on top. The palate, too, has merits masked by excess: too much weight, too much oak. A pity. 12.5