Essi Avellan: Deep, lemon-gold color. Rich, toasty nose of smoke, pastry, and red fruit. Wide palate, which is too drying at finish. Low on fruit overall. Some oxidative signs. Lacks vivacity. 15

Simon Field: An elegant fountain of bubbles, straw coloring, and a powerful autolytic nose with Marmite, biscuit, and meringue evidenced. This appeal is a little tempered by the palate, which lacks expected weight and nervosité; a mature example with a vinous character. This will have its followers; it has the depth of an Old Master, with symphonic perspective. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Classic blanc de noirs dried-fruit richness on the palate. There is a tiny oxidative note on the aftertaste, which could be a bit niggling to the purists but perfectly acceptable if it does not increase. I would risk aging it for 12–18 months. 17.5