Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Subdued nose: mandarins, apricots. Very sweet and voluptuous, creamy, but has good acidity and a slight candied tone. There’s intensity and drive, but it’s not very nuanced—indeed, the palate seems less evolved than the nose, as though still waiting for the piano score to be fully orchestrated. Of course, it can be drunk now, but it still seems youthful and would benefit from more aging. Good length, with an orangey finish. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Sleek and liquoreux. Very harmonious, very rich. Not a wine to take lightly. It’s very serious, with a slightly hot finish: very concentrated—a wine to lay down. Terrifically rich and luscious but not lush at all, nor flashy; everything is structured to balance. Terrific wine. 19

Michael Schuster: Mature gold; still relatively closed to smell—quite waxy and still with a clear coconut-oak presence; concentrated middleweight, with a fresh, defining acidity; intensely sweet, elegant, and refined flavor; long, fine, fresh, and complex, with a racy aromatic quality and excellent length. Superb early maturity. Now to 2025+. 18