Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Lush caramelized-orange nose. Suave attack, creamy yet fresh, very concentrated, with tangy acidity to refresh the palate, which is surprisingly citric. Quince and apricot, too. Intense, almost peppery, with ample drive. Surprisingly unevolved. Long and satisfying. 18

Margaret Rand: Apricot nose, very spicy, cardamom and cloves, powerful and characterful. The finish is enormous; this will live and improve for years. There’s lots of detail, and the whole is harmonious. Really good. 18

Michael Schuster: Mature orange-gold; intense mature honey-and-marmalade nose; concentrated wine, with a lively acidity; intensely sweet, marmalade-tinged flavor of moderate complexity, with good, medium length. Attractive, fully mature; good but not special. Now to 2020+. 15.5