Stephen Brook: Gold. Opulent and complex nose, with stone fruits, oranges, and some vanilla tones. There’s impressive purity and vibrancy. Fine attack, fresh and sleek, concentrated but not to excess, with vibrant orange and peach flavors. A powerful wine, without being burly or heavy. Nor is it especially sweet for 2001, which contributes to the sense of structure and robustness. Long and majestic. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Chewy, quite low acidity, coffee and spice. A full, fat wine bursting with flavor and richness—Sophie Dahl rather than Kate Moss. Luscious, but structured, too. A big, spicy finish, some oak; all very precise in its exuberant way. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Deep gold; mature honey, wax, and light-marmalade nose; moderately concentrated, supple, medium-full wine; medium-sweet, modest complexity but still with a nice freshness to it and a good, light length. Fully mature—not grand but pleasing at a lesser level. Now to 2020+. 15.5