Stephen Brook: Gold. Heady peach-and-barley-sugar nose, with ample botrytis and surprisingly evolved. Quite rich, supple, juicy; a forward style, yet it doesn’t lack concentration. There’s welcome spice and a slight toastiness on the mid-palate, as well as hints of oranges. Perhaps there’s slight lack of focus, but it needs a bit more time to harmonize, though is certainly approachable now. Good length, and it seemed more complex and creamy after returning to the wine after 20 minutes. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Earthy, roasted, not hugely complex at the moment. But quite structured—a touch of alcohol. Tight, certainly, but how will it develop? The finish is long and concentrated. I think it will become more complex but stay elegant. 15

Michael Schuster: Mid-gold; relatively unevolved, light honey-and-Semillon waxiness; rich, moderately concentrated, supple wine. Intensely sweet, juicy flavor; moderate complexity; good, light length. Good rather than special. Now to 2020. 15